Precio Reg.
$ 216.48
Precio:
$ 63.29
* Por tiempo limitado, Compre YA! Ahorra $
153,19
( 70,76% )
"El precio más barato en Moog K6654 Pitman Arm de amazon.com. Envío Rápido y Gratis. Antes de comprar, no olvide comparar precios nuevamente en amazon.com. Agregue al carrito mientras dura el inventario!"
This review is from: Moog K6654 Pitman Arm (Automotive)
2006 Chevy Silverado CCSB 2500HD LBZ Z71 These parts wear out fast if you have bigger than stock tires and aftermarket wheel offsets make it worse. Moog quality is unsurpassed and I have never been disappointed by their products. A lifetime warranty makes it all better. Sure you can get parts at autozone, but you cant get moog and you cant get a better price than Amazon. I checked everywhere and even my Napa guy giving me the military, shop, large account, and buddy discount could not come close to the price on Amazon. Just wish I had ordered the Pitman arm puller at the same time, was $45 at said napa, which I returned after use. I was able to replace the Idle arm, Idle bracket, pitman arm and add the cognito kit all in my driveway on jackstands in less than 2 hours with hand tools only. Did not even have the correct size wrench for the pitman arm, a 12″ crescent got it done.
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This review is from: Moog K6654 Pitman Arm (Automotive)
Much heavier duty than the stock part. Mine went out at 45000 but I am running 37″ tires so it accelerated wear on the front end. GMC Sierra 2500HD 2006
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This review is from: Moog K6654 Pitman Arm (Automotive)
I am happy with the fit and finish of the Moog part, but time will tell. I am mostly an OEM parts type of guy and I’m really picky about repair parts in general.
Anyway, I thought I would give a couple of pointers to those installing this Pitman Arm on GM vehicles. I remove the skid plate and sway bar (good time to check/replace the bushings while you are there). This gives you plenty of room to work. The challenge replacing the pitman arm is that there is a cross member on GM trucks and SUV’s that prevent you from using a standard pitman arm puller. Even if you can get a puller on there many times they are stuck so tight that the puller will break. Some sites are advising people to remove the entire steering box to get a puller on there, big time waster. Or use heat, a torch, etc. and your steering box seals will be destroyed. I don’t do any of that.
I use a cutoff wheel on an air grinder and CAREFULLY make a cut on the side of the pitman arm opposite the actual arm at a 45 degree angle almost through the pitman arm. You could also use an electric 4″ grinder with a cutoff wheel if you don’t have a pneumatic like this:
I make the cut at a 45 degree angle so that the wheel has more clearance and less chance of hitting the steering box. Do this very slowly, you are trying to make a cut that comes within about 1/8″ inch from the internal splines on the steering box without touching them. Take your time, really take you time, you don’t want to buy a new steering box. Did I say take your time?:) When the cut is made take a large chisel and put it in the cut. Then smack it really hard with a mini-sledge. That will crack the rest of the pitman arm steel along the cut line. Then just hold the chisel at a downward angle and tap the pitman off. Even taking your time this is easily done in 15 min. There are plenty of stories of people spending hours trying to do this job. Then put just a light coat of water proof grease on the steering box splines for reassembly and you’re done. I hope this helps.
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Heavy duty parts for heavy duty trucks,
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GMC Front End,
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Some tips for pitman replacement on GM’s,
Anyway, I thought I would give a couple of pointers to those installing this Pitman Arm on GM vehicles. I remove the skid plate and sway bar (good time to check/replace the bushings while you are there). This gives you plenty of room to work. The challenge replacing the pitman arm is that there is a cross member on GM trucks and SUV’s that prevent you from using a standard pitman arm puller. Even if you can get a puller on there many times they are stuck so tight that the puller will break. Some sites are advising people to remove the entire steering box to get a puller on there, big time waster. Or use heat, a torch, etc. and your steering box seals will be destroyed. I don’t do any of that.
I use a cutoff wheel on an air grinder and CAREFULLY make a cut on the side of the pitman arm opposite the actual arm at a 45 degree angle almost through the pitman arm. You could also use an electric 4″ grinder with a cutoff wheel if you don’t have a pneumatic like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-840788-3-Inch-Air-tool/dp/B003G3009Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1413520263&sr=1-1&keywords=pneumatic+cutoff+tool
I make the cut at a 45 degree angle so that the wheel has more clearance and less chance of hitting the steering box. Do this very slowly, you are trying to make a cut that comes within about 1/8″ inch from the internal splines on the steering box without touching them. Take your time, really take you time, you don’t want to buy a new steering box. Did I say take your time?:) When the cut is made take a large chisel and put it in the cut. Then smack it really hard with a mini-sledge. That will crack the rest of the pitman arm steel along the cut line. Then just hold the chisel at a downward angle and tap the pitman off. Even taking your time this is easily done in 15 min. There are plenty of stories of people spending hours trying to do this job. Then put just a light coat of water proof grease on the steering box splines for reassembly and you’re done. I hope this helps.
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